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17.09.2008 - Moscow Diary


South Ossetia was defiantly pro-Moscow long before Russian troops ousted Georgian forces from the region, the BBC's James Rodgers says.

The Czech Republic news are represented by www.prague-pensions-hotels.com

His diary is published fortnightly.


STAYING ON STALIN STREET
Kanye West arrested after airport row ...
OSCE gains access to Russian buffer zone in Georgia ...
Georgia, Russia trade accusations at UN disarmament body ...
Georgia and South Ossetia rebels agree ceasefire ...
Georgia recalls ambassador to Moscow ...
Memory of Prague Uprising Should Be Kept Alive, Merkel Says ...

The dancers are coming to town. The bagpipers are not.
"Moscow! Thank you for the help!" says the advertising hoarding on my way to work. A poster near the Kremlin shows a ribbon in the colours of the Russian flag entwined with another in South Ossetian colours. Outside my metro station there is an advertisement for the forthcoming performance of an Ossetian dance troupe.
In November 2006 I spent a week on Stalin Street. There aren't many Stalin Streets left. This one was in Tskhinvali, the regional capital of South Ossetia. I was there to cover the territory's referendum on independence from Georgia.
The result was a massive yes. At the time, no one really paid any attention. Even Russia said only that people should take notice. That was the only hint that less than two years later Moscow would recognise South Ossetia's independence.
I was staying in a private house on Stalin Street. The South Ossetian authorities had found accommodation for visiting journalists with local families. It gave us an unusual opportunity to talk to our hosts at greater length than any interview would have allowed.
After my visit to South Ossetia, I spent the next couple of days with the Georgian army. I was reporting on their prospects for Nato membership.
Memories of that trip have returned to me countless times since the conflict started. South Ossetia had in effect been separate from the rest of the country since a war in the early 1990s. That assignment gave me a rare glimpse of both sides.
Perhaps you too live in a part of the world where you are cut off from your neighbours. My overall impression there was how little they understood of each other.
My hosts in South Ossetia remembered with horror the fighting with Georgian government troops. Nothing, they said, would ever induce them to rejoin Georgia.
The Georgians I spoke to seemed convinced that South Ossetia would return once its people saw the economic benefits of President Mikhail Saakashvili's reforms.

ISOLATION OR ARMS RACE?

South Ossetia was isolated from the rest of Georgia by more than just a checkpoint. Tbilisi was making every effort to stress its ties with the West. Outside Gori, there was a huge poster showing Mr Saakashvili shaking hands with US President George W Bush. In South Ossetia, the main face looking down from the billboards was Vladimir Putin's.
It seems now like an omen of the conflict which would send Russian troops into battle against the forces of a close ally of Washington.
Here in Moscow, there's a strong sense that Russia did the right thing, and that the West refuses to understand that. There does seem, though, to be a creeping concern about the possible longer term consequences.
President Dmitry Medvedev conceded on Monday that Russia's financial markets had suffered as a result of the conflict - but he insisted that the Russian economy was in good shape, and there would be no change in policy. He stressed that Russia was not seeking "isolation, or, God forbid, an arms race".
Aside from the nervousness of some investors, signs of isolation so far have been few.
The British government has stopped a military pipe band from attending a festival in Moscow. Maybe not very significant in itself, but taken together with the closure earlier this year of the British Council offices outside Moscow, it shows that parts of the relationship not directly linked to politics are suffering too.
Russia has been cut off from the West for long periods of its history. It has gone through stages both of welcoming outside influence, and rejecting it.
The Russians of today are less isolated than any previous generation. Economic ties bind Russia to the rest of the world as never before. Unprecedented numbers have the chance to travel abroad. They have access to foreign movies and other media. The internet means that the government could not change that even if it wanted to.
That will not stop diplomatic relations continuing to worsen, but it might be a factor in averting a new cold war.
I wonder what my hosts on Stalin Street think.


If you would like to respond to this edition of James Rodgers' Moscow Diary please send your comments using the form below.





(BBC)


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